From crumbly dough to juicy layers - unearthing the secrets of Crimea's timeless meat pie.
Olga BrovkinaThe Krymchaks, a small yet resilient ethnic group of Turkic-Jewish origins, have been present in Crimean history for nearly five centuries. Their identity is deeply intertwined with their culinary artistry, and at the heart of their gastronomic legacy lies the kubete. The name itself, "kubete," translates to "a lot of meat," which underscores the pivotal role that meat plays in this savory creation.
At its core, kubete is a meticulously assembled composition of ingredients. Thin, transparent half-rings of sharp white onions provide a fragrant foundation, followed by tender slices of young lamb and veal that are intricately chopped with a sharp knife. This technique preserves the meat's texture. Thus, it’s important to avoid modern shortcuts like meat grinders.
One of the most sacred occasions for indulging in kubete is the revered Derviza Bayram, a celebration of fertility that aligns with the autumnal equinox celebrated each September 22. As the sun gently dips below the horizon, marking the change of seasons, families gather to honor the bountiful harvest and the tireless labor that nurtures the land. With each bite of kubete, there's a connection to the earth, a testament to the intertwining of human labor and the generosity of nature.
The very act of enjoying kubete becomes a time-honored ritual. In the old days, this pie was served "opened" on the table, its top layer sliced and divided. Household members would scoop the flavorful filling with spoons, savoring it in tandem with the tender pieces of dough. It was a sensory experience that bound families and communities.
Today, I suggest that we make the effort to prepare and then savor this exquisite Crimean delicacy.
1. Begin by preparing the meat. Using a very sharp knife, finely chop the meat of your choice. Season with salt and spices to taste, and set aside.
2. Now, let's prepare the dough. In a mixing bowl, combine 2 cups of flour with the pre-frozen butter. Using your fingers, rub the butter into the flour until it resembles coarse crumbs.
3. Add the sour cream, milk, and vinegar to the flour-butter mixture.
4. Begin kneading the dough. It may seem slightly crumbly at first, but don't worry. Gradually add more flour (about 1 cup) while kneading until the dough comes together into a smooth, pliable ball.
5. Once the dough is formed, roll it into a ball and refrigerate for about an hour to allow it to rest and firm up.
6. While the dough is resting, peel and thinly slice the potatoes. Cut the onions into rings or half rings.
7. Preheat your oven to around 200°C.
8. Take two-thirds of the dough and roll it out into a circle slightly larger than the baking dish that you plan to use.
9. Lightly grease the baking dish and carefully place the rolled-out dough inside, forming high sides.
10. Layer the bottom of the dough with sliced onions.
11. Next, arrange a layer of the thinly sliced potatoes over the onions.
12. Now, it's time for the star of the show - the seasoned meat mixture. Evenly spread the chopped meat over the potatoes.
13. Make sure to season the meat layer with spices and salt, and mix in a third of the onions for added flavor.
14. Roll out the remaining one-third of the dough and place it on top of the meat layer. Pinch the edges of the dough to seal the pie.
15. Create a small hole in the center of the pie using your finger.
16. Brush the top of the pie with the strong brewed tea. Then, insert a piece of onion into the hole you created to prevent any liquid from spilling out during baking.
17. Place the pie in the preheated oven and bake for about 20 minutes.
18. After 20 minutes, carefully remove the pie from the oven. Gently pour about 50-70 grams of meat broth into the hole in the center of the pie. Return the pie to the oven and continue baking for another 30 minutes. During this time, the pie will absorb the flavorful broth and develop a delicious, juicy filling. Repeat this procedure once more.
19. If the broth begins to leak through the top of the pie, don't worry. This will contribute to the pie's juiciness and help prevent the potatoes from becoming soggy.
20. Once the pie is golden brown and cooked to perfection, remove it from the oven and let it cool slightly before slicing and serving.
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