Alina Pekova has conquered all 14 mountain peaks that are over 8,000 meters high. Less than 50 climbers in the world have done it before her and Alina became the first person from Russia on this list.
The most difficult peaks
“It is not always possible to get to the top the first time, sometimes you have to try several times,” says Alina. “I can single out a few mountains that were the most difficult for me: K2 (Chogori), Gasherbrum I (K4) and II (K5) and Nanga Parbat.”
K2 is the second highest peak (8,614 meters above sea level) in the world after Everest, which is located in the Karakoram Mountains. At the same time, climbing it is considered technically more difficult, due to the difficult terrain and harsher weather conditions. The peaks of K4 (8,080 meters) and K5 are also located in the Karakoram Mountains and occupy the 11th and 13th places in terms of height. Nanga Parbat (8,126 meters) in the Himalayas is one of the most dangerous eight-thousanders in the world. The weather here is changeable and snowstorms and avalanches are common.
“I know a case when a climber has tried one eight-thousander 13 times and, so far, without success. Sometimes, the mountain lets you in, sometimes it doesn't,” says Alina.
But, apart from weather conditions, there are also difficulties in obtaining climbing permits in the mountains. Countries issue them in limited numbers.
“In Nepal and Pakistan, there are usually no problems with obtaining a permit,” said Alina. “But, in China, where there are two eight-thousanders, Shishapangma (8,027 meters) and Cho-Oyu (8,201 meters), it was much more difficult to get a permit. In general, getting a visa to Tibet is difficult.”
Focus on climbing
Alina was born in Nalchik (Kabardino-Balkaria) and started climbing in 2017. It took her only 18 months to conquer all eight-thousanders.
In addition, in 2023, she set a Russian record by reaching 11 peaks out of 14 in six months.
Of course, serious preparation for summit climbs is quite costly: equipment, and the road itself, and climbs have always been expensive.
“There are companies that support me financially, the main one is ‘Kavkaz.RF’ (it deals with the development of tourist zones in the Caucasus). I am also an ambassador of the ‘Elbrus’ resort (one of the largest ski resorts in Russia),” Alina says.
Another of Alina’s records is two eight-thousanders in one day, Everest (8,848 meters) and the neighboring peak Lhotse (8,516 meters).
Last on the 31-year-old Russian's list is Mount Shishapangma (8,027 meters) in the Himalayas.
In order to climb all these peaks, Alina, of course, is actively engaged in sports and outside the mountains, monitoring her health. She also says that, in the mountains, she feels great without communication.
“Often, even at base camp, there is no communication and internet, but I like it. But, even if there is, I sometimes purposefully refuse to go online or use any kind of communication, as I like to feel the whole mountain atmosphere more. I like to be alone with myself and I like to be focused on the ascent,” she says.
“Right now, my main goal is to recover and rest,” Alina says. “And then there will be new goals!”
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