Master a Soviet-era cream fudge that still beats capitalist confectionaries

When I was a child, the shape of one candy - a little elegant rose - attracted my attention because it almost looked like a little toy. In addition to the shape, I loved the box that these candies were sold in. The box’s colors were so unusual: beige and brown. While it wasn’t a very colorful package, it was so simple, delightful and cozy. Since the box was imprinted with images of slivochnaya pomadka (cream fudge) there were no transparent ‘windows’ on the package, and opening it was almost like getting a surprise every time, even though I knew perfectly well how they looked.

Despite all the fascination with the packaging and shape, ultimately the taste of slivochnaya pomadka is what always has been the most rewarding part.

For most Russians born and raised in USSR cream fudge brings back nostalgic memories of their Soviet childhood, and it is primarily associated with the Krasny Oktyabr (Red October) Factory, one of the oldest Russian confectionery manufacturers. The history of this confectionery counts more than 100 years, and there are many different variations of it in the world today.

Slivochnaya pomadka appeared in the selection of Krasny Oktyabr in the 1920s, and became part of “the Golden Fund” of their candy collection. The pomadka has survived the influx of imported sweets since 1992, which has gradually forced some traditional Soviet confectionaries out of business. Even today it remains popular among people of all generations.

What makes this candy so special is its integrity, or rather its taste and texture.

The candy’s inside remains tender, viscous and creamy, while the outside each has a thin and tender crust. The presence of candied fruit and a touch of cognac adds a unique aroma and lightness to it. This is an exquisite combination - I'll tell you!

Apart from its peculiar taste, slivochnaya pomadka has always had a distinctive feature - the shape of a small rose. In the 1920s and until the 1990s it was popular to decorate desserts with roses or flowers made of buttercream. This design was also used for this fudge. Nowadays, there are different, more modern ways to decorate sweets, but the shape of pomadka has remained the same since first produced and remains an integral part of the brand.

Try making this classic confectionary, and then you’ll understand why it was worth the effort.

Ingredients:

300g sugar
200ml whipped cream
60g butter
50g powdered milk
pinch of salt
½ tsp vanilla extract
½ tsp lemon extract
1tbsp cognac

Cooking:

1. Measure out all your ingredients. In a pot add cream and butter, and place on a burner on medium heat. Whisk until the butter melts.

2. Once the butter has melted add powdered milk, and whisk until fully dissolved.

3. At this point you are ready to add the extracts, salt and all the sugar.

4. Keep the heat on medium and whisk vigorously so the mixture doesn't stick to the sides and/or burns. While continuously whisking, heat the mixture to 115 °C, and then take it off the burner.

5. Let the pomadka cool to about 70 °C and place in a mixer bowl. Using a whisk attachment beat your mixture until it lightens in color and cools to room temperature.

6. Prepare a piping bag with a star-shaped piping tip, and divide the mixture into 3 batches, this will make it easier to pipe a smaller amount because it gets stiff and your bag might rip.

7. Pipe the mixture onto a baking tray or a cutting board, and let dry at room temperature for at least 3 hours and up to 24 hours. Enjoy!